A Touch of Africa

Awarded Top-10 Wildlife Travel Blog 

on Terra Incognita, 2018.

It was a moonless African night with a countless number of stars – there are much more of them in the South hemisphere than in the North. No human habitation in tens of miles away: just several tents around a little campfire.

Rangers are quietly talking to each other in one of 11 local languages. One hour more – and they will put the fire out and leave me alone with this night. “Just don’t forget to turn on your torch before going to the toilet: if you see someone’s eyes – better wait a bit.” – Shaba, a massive guy with a low voice, sounds a bit scary even if when he doesn’t say such things. Toilet in the bush camp was, in fact, a hole in the sand surrounded by a piece of sipped tarp. But what shall I do if I notice someone on my way back from the toilet?… For some reason, I was too embarrassed to ask.

Lovina: the charm of non-touristic Bali

What would you think if you were to hear loud hiccuping under your bed in the mid of the night?

After living for a while in the house somewhere in Bali, you are, after all, would feel grateful: gecko - a small and absolutely innocuous creature - had just decided to live in your house to protect you from mosquitos and the insects!
The sun is about to rise, and small Lovina starts to be filled with the screams of early cocks. Chicken fights is a popular activity all around the island and its one of the most favorite entertainment for locals: almost every family has one in the house.

Namibia, Okaukuejo Waterhole: The Guests of the Enchanted Lake

A human being is an amazing creature. If we observe a zebra on the road somewhere in London or in Moscow, it will make a strong impression and be something to talk about for several days.

But after the first couple of hours driving in Namibia, zebras, kudu and different species of antelopes become a routine spectacle, and we already start to look for something more exciting!

Komodo, Indonesia: the creatures of the Lost World

"There were the most extraordinary creatures that I have ever seen... 

In size they were enormous...

They had slate-colored skin, which was scaled like a lizard's and shimmered where the sun shone upon it...

I do not know how long we stayed motionless gazing at this marvelous spectacle."

(Arthur Conan Doyle,'The Lost World')

I'm inclined to think that Sir Arthur didn't know about five Indonesian islands -  Komodo, Rinca, Flores, Gili Motang, and Padar - otherwise he would relocate his "The Lost World" from Amazonia to Indonesia. Nowadays it is possible to visit just two of them - Komodo and Rinca. 

Sri Lanka, Kandy: Esala Mangallaya, The Celebration of The Buddha Tooth

The hot August night, full of the mixture of smells of spices, sweets and garbage, is quickly covering the ancient city of Kandy. The streets are overcrowded with people: they stay, sit and lie - on the streets, lamps,  rubbish bins, on top of each other, on the roofs of the ramshackle houses. Sometimes the roofs fall under the weight of the people. We are also sitting on the chairs placed on the roof at our own risk, and looking forward to what will happen next.

Suddenly the subtropical night, illuminated only by the light of the Full Moon, is starting to bloom with the thousands of lights of the ancient witchery. Fire-dancers are coming in the beginning of the procession, accompanied by the sounds of drums, flutes and own songs. The intricate pirouettes of the fiery drawing have not changed a lot over the past 400 years, and it becomes hard to believe that we are still in the XXI century.

Slovenija, Postojna Cave: The palace of noble Underground Divines

I don’t like caves very much. As my mum says, ‘anyway one day we all will be under the ground – so what is the reason to hurry?’ But Postojnska Jama is no ordinary cave.

Chocolate museum 'Cacao Grounds'- the unexpected delight

We have traveled to the Java ferry, which was quite boring and tiring when suddenly felt this smell! The beautiful smell of just prepared hot chocolate!

First time in my life I found out that chocolate - not cacao, but thick, hot black, milk, white chocolate- could be drunk with enjoyment even without sugar!

There are only two people in this museum: nice and smiling guy and a girl. They told us that this museum is made to help farmers who grow and process cacao beans. The final product is then transported to the factory in Tamberang (Java) and all money collected by the museum goes to support private farmers.

Russian Dacha’s: the way to feel real Russian spirit

The aroma of the forest, full of wild berries, mushrooms and trees; the taste of fresh and clean vegetables that have been just picked up; the heat of Russian steam room smelling wood and herbs; the atmosphere of unusual relaxation and freedom; and unforgettable feeling of sincere and warm hospitality, so typical for genuine Russian character...

If you are visiting Russia as a part of the cruise or organized trip, you will be impressed for sure: Russian culture and architecture is very special and different from any other. But looking to the impressive towers of the Red Square or admiring the magnificent fountains in Petergoff, you will see just the cover of the book named Russia.

Kuz'minki Park, Moscow, Russia: alternative experience in the Capital of Russia

Would you mind to find yourself in the real forest being in the busy city of Moscow? It is easier than you can imagine!

Leave the center for a couple of hours; take 25-minutes trip by metro and 10 minutes walk - and you will come inside the Russian fairy tale. Looking to the 200-year-old trees which remember the Tzars and noble families, feeding squirrels and ducks from your hands, riding a boat on the calm water of Kuz'minskiy Pond, you soon will be ready to meet Little Red Riding Hood or Zolushka - and even Ded Moroz, the Russian Santa Claus who has the winter residence here!

Park Kuz’minki is more popular with locals than with the tourists. Before the Red Revolution, it was the summer residence of Golitsin family where they came by horses. Nowadays the park has a total area of 11,89 square kilometers.

Amazonia: summary

This is a summary of the impressions of my trip to the Amazonian Rainforest that I undertook in March 2015 with the kindest help of Fauna Forever in March 2015. 

Over three months have passed since my return from Amazonia, and I still cannot believe that I did it. And that I had finally realized my 10-year-old dream. That I was struggling through the bogs and logs in the real Amazonian Rainforest. That I was swimming in the tropical lake with caimans. That I was walking and talking with Kris – indefatigable leader of Fauna Forever, Mark - crazy wildlife photographer,  Jesus - the genuine forest man and incomparable bird watcher, Tara - thoughtful adventurer from Holland, and other not less remarkable people I met in this expedition.

Mexico, Baja California, Loreto: People, Pelicans and Whales.

Loreto - it is the flocks of pelicans, coming from immense heights down to the water; it takes the breath away to see the bird falling like a stone.

Loreto - it is never-ceasing Mexican songs; it is incredibly modest and easy-going people - unsmiling, blushful, but helpful and heartfelt. They remind me of the Russians living in a small village; after cheerful and communicative Americans they look a bit unusual.

Sri Lanka, Kandy: Temple Dalada Maligawa

This magnificent temple is situated in the royal palace complex of the former Kingdom of Kandy. The temple was built by late king Vimaladharmasooriya 1st in 1592 to house the relic of the Tooth of Buddha.

In this unusual temple, one can find not only human monks but also monk-elephants. At 6:15 AM and 9:15 AM every day, the elephants pray together with the monks. The oldest and wisest of the creatures bears the title Raja Elephant (or "Elephant the King"). In addition to age and wisdom, the elephant that bears this title has to have large tusks. This serves as evidence of his belonging to the highest caste and gives him the right to carry out religious duties.

Bali, Ubud: Goa Gajah, the mysterious place on the Island of Mysteries

The huge parking area with hundreds of cars, numerous souvenir shops, several big tourist buses... Is it really worth to come inside? Let us try - anyway we are already here...
Let us try - anyway we are already here...

We are passing the big ablution pool, admiring the old, big trees, coming to the entrance - the mouth of the demon, the guardian of this place, which, according to with the legend, has to eat all of our unpleasant thoughts, a couple of steps more...

Bali, Ubud: Pura Taman Saraswati: the Gem of the Wisdom

You are walking by the dusty streets of Ubud, observing its busy life, admiring with its plethora of paintings and crafts. You are breathing the warm air of Balinese Cultural Capital, saturated with the spirit of creativity. You are seeing the gate of some big temple and coming inside. And you are suddenly stopping, amazed.

The blooming lotuses, spreading their aroma all over the place, hundreds, thousands of them are making you literally dissolving in the sensation of heavenly serenity and calmness. You are almost feeling how gradually the pure wisdom of the Universe starts to fill you up...

Peru, Amazonia: Fauna Forever, the Rainforest Guardians

"O heavenly Father,
protect and bless all things
that have breath: guard them
from all evil and let them sleep in peace"

(Dr. Albert Schweitzer)

It is difficult to believe, but there are still some people who are willing to leave everything behind and go to the remotest places in the world to help give these places a chance to survive. To meet people like that and to experience first-hand the work that they do is always remarkable. It renews the soul and lightens the heart. It strengthens one's confidence in kindness and love.

Peru, Puerto Maldonado: The gate to the Tambopata Rainforest

If you have ever read the stories about colonies of gold-diggers, you can imagine Puerto Maldonado as a modern version of such a settlement. Puerto is full of bars, small restaurants, and shops, and features a casino.

The main reason to come here is that it is only the entrance to this part of the Amazonian jungle. 

Peru, Puerto Maldonado: Amazon Shelter - the chance for salvation for suffered animals

"We must fight against the spirit of unconscious cruelty with which we treat the animals. 

Animals suffer as much as we do. 

True humanity does not allow us 

to impose such sufferings on them.

Until we extend our circle of compassion 

to all living things, humanity will not find peace."

(Albert Schweitzer)

The pain...

The pain of the cut-off tails and wings, pulled out claws,  diseased stomachs. The pain of the helplessness in front of the cruelty of those who are stronger and more powerful. Those who dare to be named "human".

Peru, Puerto Maldonado: Amazon Shelter - the chance for salvation for suffered animals

"We must fight against the spirit of unconscious cruelty with which we treat the animals. 

Animals suffer as much as we do. 

True humanity does not allow us 

to impose such sufferings on them.

Until we extend our circle of compassion 

to all living things, humanity will not find peace."

(Albert Schweitzer)

The pain...

The pain of the cut-off tails and wings, pulled out claws,  diseased stomachs. The pain of the helplessness in front of the cruelty of those who are stronger and more powerful. Those who dare to be named "human".

Peru, Amazonia. Tambopata Rainforest, the treasure house of wildlife miracles.

"How shall I ever forget the solemn mystery of it? The height of the trees and the thickness of the boles exceeded anything which I in my town-bred life could have imagined, shooting upwards in magnificent columns until, at an enormous distance above our heads, we could dimly discern the spot where they threw out their side-branches into Gothic upward curves which coalesced to form one great matted roof of verdure, through which only an occasional golden ray of sunshine shot downwards to trace a thin dazzling line of light amidst the majestic obscurity."

(Sir Arthur Ignatius Conan Doyle, "The Lost World")

Hardly I can describe Amazonian paradise better than Sir Doyle. This place where everything is blooming, screaming, crying, cheeping everywhere around, covering you by a warm surge of feelings which overlaid all others...

Peru, Amazonia. Sandoval lake - the kingdom of haughty Hoatzins, Blak Caimans and Giant Otters

From above, this lake has the shape of a merry whale. There are no whales in Lake Sandoval, of course, but it is home to a plethora of wildlife.

The way to the lake is not easy—you have to sail 1–1.5 hours up the river and then walk for a similar amount of time in the deep mud of the slippery road. Finally, you will take a canoe to reach your lodge.

And just here you will understand for what you mad all those efforts:  the old saying, "life seeks the water," is especially true here.
Spend twenty minutes on the lake and you can see as many species as you would see after walking in the jungle for hours. There are 20,000 species of plants, 900 species of birds, 91 species of mammals and 127 species of amphibians.