Amazonia, Peru: Venado Biological Station.

Cozy wooden house up on the hill, overlooking the little quiet lake – and nothing around. It was like a scene from a fairy tale. I was expecting to meet there Little Red Riding Hood, or, at least, an enchantress with a black cat but found just a warm company of young researchers. The project managers were locals, but the interns come from very different parts of the world.


They used to sit all together around an imposing wooden table in a large hall: some of them work with computers, other ones read or play cards, talking about their job or simply joking and laughing. I felt as I lost a couple dozens of years and flashed back to the university campus. In the rest of the room, one can find a shelf with any kinds of things – computers, biological books, waterproof bags, and other stuff - and a little table overloaded by plenty of devices waiting for 6 PM – not for evening tea but evening portion of electricity.

-    So, where shall I wash myself? – I asked the young people sitting inside.
-    Oh, there is a shower, working… sometimes – was an answer. - But it is much better to use the waterfall.


On the first day I used an artificial shower - I had to respect my cautious sub-personality, at least just a bit. But on the second day I tried the natural one, and I found it more powerful and much funnier. I thought that American or European businessmen might do a good deal with this thing – perhaps we could name it as the "Natural Spa of Amazonia" or something in those lines.

In the Venado station, people get up early –  most of the work are started at 5 a.m., and the fieldwork is almost finished by 11 a.m. In a pick of heat, when the temperature rises more than up to 30 degrees Celsius and humidity is around 100%, it is much better to sit in the shade, working out the data or reading rather than to walk in rainforest.

There are two bedrooms with double bunk beds. I glanced inside and saw the stuff - rucksacks, scientific equipment and even the bag with the snake. The snake had been caught during the night trail and picked up to be measured and weighted. In the time I met the creature, it was sleeping and waiting to be taken to the same place where it has been found). The station is populated by interns came from different parts of the world and local biologists and workers.
The hall was covered by a mosquito net and has two entrances: from the first one we came in, and the second one led to the kitchen.



It was the kingdom of the cook Bladimir, who was the best cook I ever met! I know it for sure, because of at least one fact: during all my long life I hated oat porridge – this all changed however when I met Bladimir. He cooked it in such a nice way, adding apples, cinnamon, and some other unknown ingredients that I have started to love this dish - and I can't stop eating it up to now!

«Rancho! Rancho!» - Bladimir called the guys when he was ready with dinner. The dinner starts at 7 p.m. (just with a little correction for a local feeling of the time - only +/- 30 min, never more). I didn’t manage to understand why “Rancho” means “It’s time to eat”, and nobody could explain – but what matters? The meal was delicious and healthy: stuffed vegetables (for non-vegetarians – something from meat), mushrooms, some complex, but appetizing sauce, freshly squeezed juice from tropical fruits.

-    Why do you have almost a Russian name, Bladimir? - I asked the cook with the help of Jesus. - And a very famous one, I should say! Do you know that it means “the Lord of the World”? –
-    But my name started with “B”, not with “V” – he replied, and I noticed that he was embarrassed but happy. – No, I don’t know why my parents gave this name to me… No idea!

After the dinner, everyone has to wash their dishes. There were just two bowls for that – one with soap,  to wash, and another with normal water, to rinse. “It is against all the rules of hygiene!” – cried my poor cautious sub-personality. “Do you prefer not to eat at all?” – I’ve asked her, reasonably. “These people have lived here for several months, and they don’t look ill,  do they?”. The part became breathless with indignation. Later on one friend of mine, working up for a good Maltese restaurant as a waiter, confessed that they do the same.


Long before my visit Chris confirmed that I don’t have to live in the hostel. It was one of my main requirements – I spent wonderful years in a hostel being a student, but don’t have any wish to repeat this experience ever again. That's why I stayed in the tent which I had brought with me.


I was standing near my tent after dinner and staring admiringly up to the south sky. This sky is much reached in the stars than our native one. Unfortunately, the names of constellations have been given here not by romantic Antic Greeks but by pragmatic European conquerors. So, instead of our Cassiopeia and Andromedas, these beautiful stars bear names of compasses and sextants - what a pity!

Suddenly, I heard some stirring in the dark, but before I had time to be frightened I noticed Jesus emerged near my place.

-    ‘Do you know that the caimans are living in this lake?’ – he asked enthusiastically.
-    ‘I wouldn’t have even guessed it’ – I replied.
-    ‘Do you want to see them?’
-    ‘Certainly! But how?’
-    ‘Oh, it is quite easy’ – my guide explained to me. – ‘You just have to walk slowly and to brighten the lake using your torch.’

And we saw them, indeed! Two or three pairs of red dots were shining brightly in the light of our torches. They didn’t even try to hide – what is the torch to the Lords of Amazonian lakes?!

-    ‘Don’t be afraid of them, they are small – you see, this lake is quite small’ – Jesus reassured. – ‘Good night!’

I don’t know why, but I wasn't scared at all. I was feeling like a princess in the enchanted forest lake. I was sleeping in my reliable double-layered tent, surrounded by billions of lanterns, the brilliant stars of South Hemisphere above me, bright flying glow-worms in the air around me and the red eyes of caimans, blinking in the lake.


07.03.2015